10/12/2026
Happy Indigenous People’s Day!
Quillwork is thought to be the oldest type of embroidery in North America. However, by the Mid-1800s beadwork was more commonly used than quillwork.
Native people in North America used beads made of shells, stones, bone, and metal. They traded extensively with one another for these materials. With the European fur trade came glass beads made in Venice and Czechoslovakia which were traded with native people across North America for furs and other materials.
Beads were sewn onto cloth, birch bark, and leather and woven into bands. Elaborate bandolier bags were worn as a symbol of pride.
Known as Manidoominens in Ojibwe, seed beads are known as Gifts of the Spirit, or simply Spirit Seeds.
Woodland tribes such as the Ojibwe are known for their large floral motifs which are bead applique. Beads are strung onto thread and stitched. The shapes are stitched first, then the background is filled in.
Many North American tribes sharing regions of the continent with the porcupine produced quillwork. Quillwork is done on leather or birch bark and is used as an embellishment on medicine bags, jewelry, moccasins, and birch bark baskets and boxes.
Techniques are varied: folding, twisting, wrapping, plaiting, sewing, and simple stringing. Usually the quill is flattened first, either with a hand tool or traditionally by the artist running it through her teeth. Quills are left their natural color or dyed before applying.
Sometimes patterns were recorded on birch bark or rawhide. Some techniques require sewing the quills down with thread, traditionally made of animal sinew. Stitches include parallel or band technique, zig zag, and plaiting.
Quillwork on birch bark like these examples mainly uses a staple like stitch. Two holes are made with an awl and then the quill is threaded through both. Both ends are folded to secure it in place. After the quillwork is done, a birch bark lining is added to protect the back or inside of the object.
Anishinaabe artists today continue to make quilled and beaded objects with both traditional and modern designs.
From MRHC special exhibits - Changing Hands: A Heritage Crafts Exhibit, 2019