01/09/2026
Fashion steps out of the studio and into the streets of Paris.
Shot for Vogue Paris and featuring Jean Paul Gaultier’s Autumn/Winter 1991–92 collection, Peter Lindbergh Foundation’s photograph of Helena Christensen and Marie-Sophie Wilson in Montmartre feels almost like a scene encountered by chance. The models move through the street rather than simply posing within it; fashion becomes part of everyday Parisian life.
However, the image reveals another important side of Lindbergh’s photographic language. He greatly admired documentary photographers such as Dorothea Lange, Henri Cartier-Bresson and Garry Winogrand, and their influence can be felt in his preference for moments that appear spontaneous and unforced.
Against the glamour-driven fashion photography of the period, this approach was quietly radical. Gaultier’s theatrical designs remain unmistakably present, yet Lindbergh allows personality, movement and the life of the street to take over.
The result sits somewhere between fashion photography, street scene and cinematic still. A combination that makes Lindbergh’s work so immediately recognisable.
PETER LINDBERGH
Lionel Vermeil, Helena Christensen, Marie-Sophie Wilson, for VOGUE Paris, Montmartre, Paris, 1991
Gelatin silver print
60 x 50 cm
Combined edition of 25 across all formats, including the 90 x 60 cm size
Signed, titled, dated, and numbered
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