05/29/2026
Within the loaded discourse around fashion, body image, and styles deemed “flattering,” prevailing wisdom has long dictated that horizontal stripes widen while vertical stripes lengthen and slim. On view now in "Illusive Objects," this Chanel dress epitomizes that belief, deliberately switching from wide horizontal stripes on top to narrow vertical stripes below the bust. The design is intended to enhance the illusion of broader shoulders with a slimmer waist and longer legs.
Interestingly, the opposite effect has been asserted in academic studies. British psychologists in 2009 used three-dimensional female models to test the Helmholtz Illusion. (In 1925, Hermann von Helmholtz discovered that a square filled with horizontal lines appears taller and narrower than one with vertical lines.) Their findings showed that with two models of the same size, the one in horizontal stripes appeared thinner.
📍"Illusive Objects" is on view through July 2, 2026 in the Goldstein Gallery (McNeal Hall, level 2). Regular hours: Tuesday through Friday, 10:00 AM to 4:30 PM and on Thursdays until 7:00 PM. Map and parking at z.umn.edu/gmd-visit.
🏷 Dress, 1978-1985. Chanel. Gift of Mr. and Mrs. Miles (Shirley) Fiterman, 1992.035.019.