17/04/2025
Spanish Jews in 1492 were faced with the choice of forced conversion to Catholicism or banishment. Some of the wealthier Spanish families were invited to neighboring Portugal with the promise of temporary safety and freedom of religion in exchange for large fees. But soon, there too in Portugal, they were given a choice: death or conversion to Catholicism. Some chose death. To provide an incentive for conversion the children of the chief rabbi were boiled in oil while the community was forced to watch.
Among those who had fled Spain to Portugal for what they thought was temporary safety was the wealthy Nasi family. In 1497 the family was forcibly converted to Catholicism and were given the Christian family name of De Luna. They lived outwardly as Christians but maintained their Jewish lives in secret, as did many others. (The penalty for maintaining any Jewish practice was of course death, following a mock trial and torture by the Inquisition. If they confessed they were sentenced to death, often by burning. If they didn’t confess they were tortured and then killed). One of the descendants of this wealthy family was a remarkable woman by the name of Dona Gracia. She and her family used their influence to run a sort of underground railroad to assist secret Jews in escaping Christian Europe. Eventually they themselves were able to arrange a safe passage to Venice. The city state of Venice, though nominally Catholic, resisted efforts by the Vatican to control it and permitted Jews to practice their faith in safety though under restrictive conditions.
Nevertheless, the Inquisition eventually arrived in Venice and arrested Dona Gracia and her family. They had been planning to make their way from Venice to the Ottoman Empire to which they had been invited by the Sultan. When this happened, the Ottoman Empire declared war on Venice and threatened to attack Venetian vessels wherever they were found. Eventually the family was released and arrived safely in the Ottoman Empire. In gratitude, they funded the thriving Jewish community and the construction of synagogues including this synagogue probably sometime around 1559, which is called Signora (synagogue of the Señora) in honor of Dona Gracia Nasi. This synagogue, among several others, still serves the community. This is a fascinating and incredibly complex story that I have endeavored to simplify.
Neil Folberg
Signora Synagogue, Izmir, Turkey, 1993
60.5 x 47.5 cm
vintage evercolor carbon print
HistoricSynagogue