26/04/2026
December 1912 Growth of Settlement on North Bruni by the Mercury’s Travelling Correspondent
The Travelling Correspondent begins his article saying how can people call North Bruni ‘ungetable’ when it takes just over an hour in the SS Dover from town to Dennes Point.
He felt that those who travelled up and down the Channel might not have an initial favourable impression of the west coast of Bruni. The fertile country on the mainland appears well sheltered and wooded, the numerous settlements, with jetties every few miles, and other busy appearance when the steamer is alongside, stands out in striking contrast to the Bruni shore opposite, where practically no sign of civilisation meets the eye, and the hills rise from the shore in one long wall along the coastline, unadorned, save by the native scrub and the monotonous eucalypt. Yet it is those hills, (which act as buffers, and break the force and fury of fury of the harsh westerly gales that play a very important part in the natural geography of the island. Once behind the protecting range a very different picture comes into view. Long stretches of undulating country, gentle slopes, and well sheltered valleys open up before one on every side. The greater part of the soil on North Bruni is sandy in nature, varying in colour and texture, sometimes a rich black, sometimes varied shades of red and nearly always with a subsoil of soft yellow clay, which is always looked upon as the one thing necessary for successful fruit-growing.
Most of the estates on North Bruni range from 500 to 2,000 acres. Woodlands, the Dennes’ property comprises 700 acres of rich red sands with a large area in cultivation. Mr Harry Denne has just subdivided a number of blocks of land along the foreshore. Mr Leo Young of Nebraska runs a mixed farm with 10 acres of orchard. Shearing had just been completed and Mr Young averaged a clip of 8 lbs a sheep. The property’s name is the first known example of it being used. At Killora new arrivals Misters Cadell and Grey are contemplating planting extensive orchards in the coming season.
At Bull Bay, Messrs Len and Bun Young both have extensive orchards and farms. The view from the road here is truly magnificent. Beyond are the high cliffs and rocky shore that form the sea coast of Bruni and the Derwent Lighthouse on its lonely rock that forms the foreground to a picture of mile after mile of sandy beaches.
Five miles from Dennes Point is Barnes Bay, that beloved bay of Yachtsmen. At first sight it appears to be a lake, so sheltered is it. There is a church, store and Post Office and a good jetty where a steamer calls once a week. There are several farms and orchards fronting onto the water. Mr A Denne of Lyndenne has the best orchard I saw on the island, he grows apples, pears and apricots. The soils is very dark and mixed through with seashells. Across the bay at a part called Lennon are several farms and orchards, although they are a great deal smaller than usual. Nearby, although somewhat isolated is the Quarantine Station. It was with a certain amount of fear that I approached those officious looking buildings, with their high fences and gateways. I was, to tell the truth, rather doubtful as to getting away again, and certainly I was held a willing prisoner till I had partaken of some welcome refreshment from the hospitable officials in charge (Mr. and Mrs. Harrison). There is quite a township of buildings here, which are kept in perfect order-doctor's residence, hospital with beds ready at a minute's notice, accommodation for saloon and steerage passengers, and discharging ward, etc. On being asked, Mr. Harrison told me business was very slack, the station not having been used for twenty-seven year!
Coming back to the jetty after leaving Mr. Denne's property, Mr. W. J. Calvert at Kirkby is the next estate. This is one of the largest on the island, comprising 2,000 acres. Though it is not so long since Mr. Calvert bought Kirkby, he has made wonderful changes in the time. Besides running a considerable flock of sheep, he has several very fine paddocks of oats and wheat, and altogether some 200 acres of cultivation, besides which he has planted some 20 acres of orchard. With Kirkby one seems, for the time being anyhow, to leave civilisation behind, and the main road soon becomes a mere track, invisible 50 yards ahead. Nevertheless, the trip through here will always remain a picture in my mind. The country suffered a recent bush fire which cleaned out all the undergrowth. The road, or rather, track, has been cleared and the sags chipped, but that is all. Over this cleared track and all through the bush is just now a green sward of new native grass, making the road springy and easy to cycle over; but the predominating feature is the superb spectacle of the grass trees, the trunks charred black, but with a great luxuriance of fresh green top, and above all the magnificent blossom, which reminds one of a long, bulrush, only pure white, and varying in length from two to ten feet, and about four inches through. For nearly three miles I cycled through this long, straight avenue, the grass trees extending on either side as far as the eye could see, and the tall, straight white blossoms standing like lonely watchers, and no sign or sound of life, save for the distant note of the magpie. These grass trees are remarkable in many ways. They are very slow in growing, and some of, the old inhabitants, can remember individual trees that are no bigger than they were 60 years ago, so that some of these must be of very great age. In size they vary slightly, the trunk being about a foot through, and always carrying the marks of fire, and ranging from 2ft. 6in. to about 5ft. in height. The top consists of long green needles or spines about 2ft. long. As these ripen they fall over the trunk, and are very flammable. The most curious part is that they never bloom, except after they are burnt, and this fact was, of course the reason why that largo extent before referred to was in bloom and making such a magnificent and almost unique scene.
At the end of this track the road turns sharply to the left, and reaching the water again facing Lennon, are two or three very old estates, the first being Oakwood, the property of Mr. W. J. Harwood, who has been here some three years, and who has laid out some twenty aces of orchard, which is making remarkable growth, and certainly reflects the greatest credit on the industrious owner. Further on are the extensive properties of Rosewood and Lennonville, belonging to Messrs. Johnston and Gellibrand respectively. These properties, which are looking well with a luxuriance of grass, are chiefly used for grazing purposes. It is worth mentioning here that these properties on Bruni Island, with their well grassed paddocks, old trees, and gardens full of old-fashioned sweet-scented flowers, have that mellow touch that can only be acquired by time. There is a very peaceful, old-world appearance about these places, which have passed the first rough stages of a new country, and I was particularly impressed with the fact that here on Bruni Island, where one hardly imagined there could be homes of this description, one found beautiful old farms, with substantial barns, and round about the homesteads spreading, trees and garden hedges that remind one of very different places.
To be continued…..