Bloshka

Bloshka Bloshka is a blog about the love of history, memories, culture and art, about fashion, travel and distant places of the planet, life and values of the past.

Knocker-up or knocker upper – alarm clock man. During the Industrial Revolution, more accurate timekeeping was required....
19/02/2024

Knocker-up or knocker upper – alarm clock man. During the Industrial Revolution, more accurate timekeeping was required. Night shift workers often disrupted biorhythms. Not everyone had a watch, much less alarm clocks and servants. A street profession called knocker-up has appeared. In the morning they walked and knocked on windows and doors until the owners woke up. This profession could be found on the streets of Britain, Ireland and the Netherlands.

In London, lived the most famous knocker-up, Mary Smith. She shot peas at the windows from a tube. Andrea U'Ren even wrote a children's book about her. Smith was born in 1865 and lived, as you might imagine, a difficult life. She gave birth to sixteen children, only two of whom lived to adulthood.
Photographer John Topham, who took the famous photographs of Smith, recalls: “Every morning except Sunday, she got up at three to shoot down local workers using a pea shooter. She charged sixpence a week and her nearest competitor was an old man three miles away who did the same job using a fishing rod and tapping on the windows above.
In the children's book Mary Smith, she is depicted waking up everyone from fishmongers to the mayor. She was often seen "beating rugs in the street and greeting neighbours" and offering people a cup of tea.

Coiffure à la Titus (or Cheveux à la Titus; de. Tituskopf; Hairstyle a la Titus) or Coiffure à la victime ("Victim's Hai...
15/02/2024

Coiffure à la Titus (or Cheveux à la Titus; de. Tituskopf; Hairstyle a la Titus) or Coiffure à la victime ("Victim's Hairstyle") is a short haircut for men and women, fashionable in the 1790s - 1810s.
The history of hairstyles begins on May 30, 1791 in Paris, with the performance of Voltaire's play Brutus. Actor François-Joseph Talma, whose hair was cut short in the style of a Roman bust, played the role of Titus. Titus is not a Roman emperor (reigned 79-81 AD), but Titus Junius Brutus (527-509 BC), the eldest son of Lucius Junius Brutus. Eight days later, all Parisian youth cut their hair short, and from that evening the fashion for a hairstyle a la Titus came into fashion.
The uniqueness of the hairstyle was the short hair. Men have not worn short hair openly for almost two centuries. Yes, they cut their hair and shaved their heads, but they hid it under wigs (Allonge). Women did not cut their hair at the whim of fashion. Short haircuts can only be found in Ancient Egypt and Rome, but this was for the convenience of wearing a wig. The rest of the time, short haircuts can be found as a tradition among some peoples, or as a measure of punishment, or as a technical necessity due to illness (after typhoid or lice).
The second name of Coiffure à la victime is associated with the Victims' Balls (Bals des victimes), which were held for relatives of victims of terror. The condition for entering the ball was the loss of a close relative from the guillotine. The hairstyle expressed solidarity with the guillotined (the convict's hair was cut off so that the blade would pass cleanly through the neck). Some sources claim that a woman with this hairstyle would sometimes wear a red shawl or ribbon around her neck, even when not attending the Bals des victimes.
In the 1800s, hair began to be styled in curls, and hair gradually grew out at the back of the head. The fashion for short hair passed along with the Empire era. But the hair at the temples and near the face continued to be cut and curled. This fashion continued until the 1830s.
Short haircuts remained in men's fashion, only the degree of length was dictated by trends.

A codpiece is part of men's clothing or armor. The codpiece appears in men's fashion in the third quarter of the 15th ce...
06/02/2024

A codpiece is part of men's clothing or armor. The codpiece appears in men's fashion in the third quarter of the 15th century. The two legs (Chausses) began to be sewn together and it became necessary to hide the underwear (Braies) in the front. For this, outerwear or a cape (Heuke, Giubberello) was worn.
At first, the codpiece was a “bag” that was tied to a doublet. In the 16th century, there was a greater emphasis on the codpiece. The codpiece became a decorative element. It was often stuffed to give it volume, giving it a vertical position. The codpiece was a very prominent part of the trousers (Pluderhosen) of the 16th century. In the 1570s, Pluderhosen became very voluminous and the codpiece did not stand out. The fashion at Pluderhosen turned into a trend for breeches (culottes) and the codpiece “dissolved”. The fashion for codpieces did not last very long, about 100 years.
The codpiece appeared in armor fashion only in the middle of the 16th century, under the influence of ordinary fashion. Before this transition, knights wore special “pants” made of chain mail - Brayette.

Voilette is an accessory, headpiece or part of a headdress made of tulle, lace or fine mesh. Voilette is a reduced varia...
02/02/2024

Voilette is an accessory, headpiece or part of a headdress made of tulle, lace or fine mesh. Voilette is a reduced variation of the veil, it does not serve any function, only decorative. Voilette usually covers the eyes or part of the face, sometimes it does not hide anything, but adds volume to the headdress.

14th century men’s fashion
15/01/2024

14th century men’s fashion

500 years of history in portraits1924 ––> 1524
03/01/2024

500 years of history in portraits
1924 ––> 1524

Ski wear, 1880s – 1890s
01/01/2024

Ski wear, 1880s – 1890s

A beret is a type of headdress without a brim, just a crown. The beret is usually made of felt, but can be made of velve...
21/12/2023

A beret is a type of headdress without a brim, just a crown. The beret is usually made of felt, but can be made of velvet, silk or knitted. Often decorated with feathers and brooches. The beret can be made as solid or sewn from several parts.
The beret appears in the 14th century, but becomes popular around 1500s. Sometimes the beret can be confused with similar headdresses: the Tudor bonnet and the Toque hat, but they have a brim and the beret does not.
The beret is often used as a uniform, but in this post we will look at the beret as part of fashion. Sometimes a beret can be part of a national costume (for example, the Basque Country), culture (for example, in the Netherlands, Zwarte Piet) and the subject of stereotypes (for example, the French beret).

The Carrick coat is overcoat with 2 to 5 cape collars.From the beginning of the 19th century, coats with capes were very...
16/12/2023

The Carrick coat is overcoat with 2 to 5 cape collars.
From the beginning of the 19th century, coats with capes were very popular. Different models of coats had capes, but among them the Carrick stood out or was sometimes called "Garrick". Initially the name was a caricature, but then it remained.
The carrick coat with sleeves differed from the others in having a layered cape. Usually there are 3 or 5 layers of cape, but there were also two layers, but we came across the signature: Carrick with one cape.
The carrick was made of wool, usually beige, sometimes brown, camel, yellow and black. The carrick was worn for riding or traveling.
The Carrick was popular in the first quarter of the 19th century, but then single cape coats became popular.

Autoped is the first motorized scooter named after the company that registered the patent. The Autoped company produced ...
10/12/2023

Autoped is the first motorized scooter named after the company that registered the patent. The Autoped company produced from 1913 to 1921 in the USA; from 1919 to 1922, motorized scooters were produced in Germany at the Krupp factory.
The autoped became very popular during the First World War, when there were problems with private transport. The autoped was expensive, but cheaper than a car and many could afford it.
The autoped was compact and had a folding steering wheel, which was perfect for cities.
Around 1919, a seat appeared on the Autoped and thus began the history of a separate vehicle - the Scooter (motorcycle). In the 1920s, scooters lost their popularity as cars became cheaper and more comfortable.

Fichu and Canezou are thin shawls (scarves) made of light fabric (muslin, tulle) or lace that cover the chest and décoll...
14/11/2023

Fichu and Canezou are thin shawls (scarves) made of light fabric (muslin, tulle) or lace that cover the chest and décolleté. We made a post about them a long time ago, but decided to add it.
Fichu and canezou covered the deep neckline of a lady's dress, popular at that time, warming and ensuring a decent appearance.
However, ladies often used these accessories in such a way that they favorably exaggerated feminine charms rather than hiding them.
The main difference: Fichu is tucked into the neckline, while canezou crosses under the bust and is tied at the back.
This should not be confused with a partlet (which is a piece of outerwear) and a chemisette (which is a piece of undergarment).

Miniature Portraits with overlays of mica.Unusual portraits came into fashion after about 1650. However, all the portrai...
08/11/2023

Miniature Portraits with overlays of mica.
Unusual portraits came into fashion after about 1650. However, all the portraits that were found on the Internet belong to the period from the 1640s to the 1660s.
The portrait is a miniature painted in oil on copper and placed in a case. The miniature is accompanied by several plates of costumes, painted in opaque color on pieces of a transparent mineral known at the time as “talc.” But the small plates with the “images” are pieces of mica. This is a mineral that splits easily into thin yet very tough and flexible flakes, as transparent as glass. These plates matched the miniature in shape and size, so the owner could “play” with different costumes by applying mica one at a time. There are mica portraits from the Netherlands, England and France, but there are probably many more.

fr. Robe (eng. Gown) in 18th century fashion. The journey from bedroom wear (late 17th century) to 18th century basic go...
04/11/2023

fr. Robe (eng. Gown) in 18th century fashion. The journey from bedroom wear (late 17th century) to 18th century basic gown and as Court costume. Various types and models.

10 Halloween Costume Ideas
25/10/2023

10 Halloween Costume Ideas

Wedding fashion. 19th century
23/10/2023

Wedding fashion. 19th century

The Dandy horse (or  the Draisine, or a Laufmaschine) is a two-wheeled vehicle, with both wheels in line, propelled by t...
08/10/2023

The Dandy horse (or the Draisine, or a Laufmaschine) is a two-wheeled vehicle, with both wheels in line, propelled by the rider pushing along the ground with the feet as in regular walking or running. This was the progenitor of the first bicycle. The dandy horse was capable of more than doubling the average walking speed, to around 10 mph (16 km/h).
The Dandy horse (de. Laufmaschine) was invented in 1817 by a Baden baron Karl von Drais (who called it a Laufmaschine), hence its name ("draisienne" or "Draisine"). He was inspired by the search for a solution to the problem of the shortage of horses as a means of transportation. The reason for this was the Napoleonic Wars and the eruption of Mount Tambora and the Year Without a Summer (1816).
The Dandy horse became a popular form of entertainment, leading to many caricatures. The idea of two-wheeled transport was refined and the first bicycle was created.

Robe de Style is a fashionable dress style of the 1920s with a voluminous skirt, which distinguished this style from the...
01/10/2023

Robe de Style is a fashionable dress style of the 1920s with a voluminous skirt, which distinguished this style from the then popular rectangular silhouette. The top of the dress remained straight, or even rectangular, and with a low waist, and the bottom of the dress was complemented by petticoats, crinolines, nets and all kinds of decor. The Robe de Style was ornate and was usually worn as an evening dress, a wedding dress, or a dressy dress.
Robe de Style introduced Jeanne Lanvin into fashion. But she was not the creator of a new silhouette. Similar models can be found as early as the mid-1910s. The trend was picked up by various fashion houses known for their versions of the Robe de Style, including Boué Soeurs, Callot Soeurs, Doeuillet and Lucile.

1950s toilet paper advertisement
02/09/2023

1950s toilet paper advertisement

Mules are shoes without a back, with heels and a closed toe. These are classic mules. But you can also find mules with a...
29/08/2023

Mules are shoes without a back, with heels and a closed toe. These are classic mules. But you can also find mules with an open toe and without a heel. Usually mules are made of fabric, but they are also made of leather.
Mules appeared in Western fashion in the 16th century. This is what the books say, but unfortunately, I did not find any images of the 16th century. There is a version that mules originated from Lotus Chinese shoes. We have a separate post about them. Visually, this shape of the toe reduces the size of the foot. But most likely the creators of the first mules were inspired by the traditional shoes of the East, Asia and the Arab countries. For example Moroccan Babouche are very similar to mules.
It is difficult to say when mules appeared at all and from what the name comes from. Most likely from the French "Moyle". The Oxford English Dictionary says that: "The earliest known use of the noun mule is in the Middle English period (1150-1500)".
Mules were originally house shoes like slippers. Sometimes you can find the name " bedroom's shoes". Mules were worn by both men and women. They were especially popular in the 18th century. Home shoes were worn both indoors and for walks in the garden.
In the 20th century, a wide variety of mules appeared. Mules are called almost any shoes without a back, but except for slippers, sabot, sandals, clogs and flip-flops.

The history of makeup is as old as this world. Many books have been written about this. Therefore, we will briefly talk ...
21/08/2023

The history of makeup is as old as this world. Many books have been written about this. Therefore, we will briefly talk about the 20th century. When choosing materials for this post, it came to the understanding that every decade can become a separate post about Makeup. Perhaps we will do that.
Makeup in the 19th century was natural, or as they say now Naked. The ladies used makeup, but did it in such a way that no one would notice. The exception is the women of "Easy Virtue".
At the beginning of the 20th century, cinema began to influence the image of beauty. Bright makeup, emphasizing shadow and light, enhancing the drama in films, was technically necessary. Due to the poor quality of the film, contrasting makeup was necessary. So Smokey Eyes and bright lipstick come into fashion.
Eyebrow line and thickness changes every decade. Bright red lipstick is replaced by almost neutral shades. The fashionable shape of the lips also changes every decade. 1920s lips "bows"; 1930s thin, small lips; 1940s lips are bright, juicy red shades.

1980sBrief history of fashion in pictures.Women’s and men’s, hairstyles, underwear, wedding, sportswear and swimsuits.
16/08/2023

1980s
Brief history of fashion in pictures.
Women’s and men’s, hairstyles, underwear, wedding, sportswear and swimsuits.

Jodhpur pants (or trousers) and Riding Breeches are two types of pants that are similar in silhouette. Main feature: ver...
03/08/2023

Jodhpur pants (or trousers) and Riding Breeches are two types of pants that are similar in silhouette. Main feature: very wide, loose-fitting trousers in the hips and narrow from the knee down. This style of trousers came into fashion at the end of the 19th century and was popular until the 1950s.
Riding breeches and Jodhpurs are slightly different in origin. Riding breeches come from breeches, as the name implies, and have attributes that are characteristic of them. For example, buttons, lacing, straps on the sides and below the knee. This is necessary to sit snugly on the leg below the knee, since this part is hidden under high boots. Riding breeches were worn for riding, and breeches were part of the uniforms of officers in many countries around the world until the 1950s. It was believed that all officers ride horses. High boots and wide trouser legs at the hips were a must in their uniform. Since the beginning of the 20th century, when other modes of transport appeared, riding breeches were worn as a uniform for driving a car, a motorcycle, and for pilots.
Jodhpurs, as the name implies, originate from India. This is an adaptation of national clothes to European fashion. Jodhpurs are pants that are wide at the hips and narrow at the ankles. There are a few more nuances to the difference in fabric. Jodhpurs are not always worn with high boots, sometimes with low shoes or with special boots, which are also called Jodhpurs.
In women's fashion, Jodhpurs and riding breeches appear as part of the riding attire. Often combined with a skirt and jacket. Since the 1910s, this style of trousers has been worn as sportswear, for outdoor activities and for travel. Interest in Archeology consolidated the image of a traveler in a pith helmet, riding breeches (usually beige), high boots and a white shirt. This image was worn by women and men.
Jodhpurs and riding breeches peaked of fashion in the 1930s. Then these breeches became part of the casual. The popularity faded after the WW2, and after the invention of elastic fabrics, wide riding trousers were no longer required. In the 1980s, there is a new interest in such a style, but it does not become widespread.

Archery is one of the few sports available to women since ancient times. Archery does not require a lot of activity, so ...
08/07/2023

Archery is one of the few sports available to women since ancient times. Archery does not require a lot of activity, so women could shoot with a bow and keep decorum in their clothes.
We will not talk about the history of archery. We are not experts in sports. Let's talk about the fact that a woman with a bow was an alligory for the goddess Diana (Artemis) or was like an Amazon. Numerous portraits from the 16th to 18th centuries depicted noble ladies as Diana, the goddess of the hunt. A very popular activity among the nobility.
Until the 19th century, there were no special clothes for archery, hunting clothes or riding clothes were worn for this. A comfortable jacket is the main foundation of an archery suit. They wore a chatelaine on their belt to record the results. Skirts were of various volumes and lengths, depending on the fashion.

Miser's Purse is a small purse worn in a pocket or handbag.The name appeared later than the fashion and, apparently, thi...
01/07/2023

Miser's Purse is a small purse worn in a pocket or handbag.
The name appeared later than the fashion and, apparently, this form was inspired by medieval purses. They also said that this type of purse is due to the habit of carrying money in a stocking / sock and its second name is a Stocking purse. The purse consisted of two "bags", connected by a jumper, and also had two rings and a slot. The rings made it difficult to extract the coins, for this they had to be moved.
Wallets were richly decorated, embroidered, crocheted. They were elegant enough and easy to make, it was a great gift idea.
The fashion for this type of purse was in the 18th - early 20th centuries.

Painted knees and rolled down stockings.Flappers, as fashionistas in the Roaring Twenties were called, were very bold gi...
21/06/2023

Painted knees and rolled down stockings.

Flappers, as fashionistas in the Roaring Twenties were called, were very bold girls in fashion trends. We have a post about them. Not all radical fashionistas in the 1920s decided to blush or paint their knees and roll down their stockings. But this fashion trend was written about in newspapers and songs were sung.
'Roll ’em girls roll ’em girls
Go ahead and roll ’em
Roll ’em down and show your pretty knees
Roll ’em girls roll ’em ev’rybody roll ’em
Roll ’em high or low just as you please
Don’t let people tell you that it’s shocking
Paint your sweetie’s picture
On your stocking ..."
by Billy Murray, 1925

Silent film starring Louise Brooks was even named after the phenomenon: "Rolled Stockings", 1927

In the 1920s, girls abandoned stocking garters and rolled them up to draw attention to their knees. Rolled down stockings were popular in beach fashion, in pools and with sportswear. There were even special garters for rolled stockings. It was not proper to go without stockings. Around the same time, another trend appeared - to paint the entire leg, as if it were in a stocking. Dress styles were still too long to show the tops of the legs, but the popular dances of the era, from the Charleston to the Foxtrot, showed blushed or patterned knees, drawing more attention.
The fashion for painted knees was forgotten until the 1960s. When miniskirts came into fashion, the trend came to adorn the legs.

15th century men's fashion
14/06/2023

15th century men's fashion

Reticule (fr. Réticule; de. Pompadour; es. Ridículo) – a small handbag on a long cord or ribbon, reminiscent of a small ...
07/06/2023

Reticule (fr. Réticule; de. Pompadour; es. Ridículo) – a small handbag on a long cord or ribbon, reminiscent of a small bag or basket. In the reticule they carried a handkerchief, a purse and various ladies' trinkets.
The small handbag, which was carried in the hand, appeared in the 1790s due to changes in fashion and clothing style. Before that, there were small bags, but usually they were wallets that were attached to the belt and hung from it. In the 16th and 18th centuries, ladies used hanging pockets that were hidden under women's loose skirts. We wrote a separate post about them. With the spread of tight-fitting dresses at the end of the 18th and beginning of the 19th centuries, there were no more places for pockets, and handbags came into fashion. The name "reticule" came from the French réticule, which in turn came from the Latin reticulum, a diminutive of rete, or "net". Sometimes the Reticule is called "Ridicule" (ridiculous, absurd, funny), because of the play on words..
In the 1820s, more rigid forms of the reticule appeared, and in the 1830s they fell out of fashion, replaced by handbags or purse attached to the chatelaine. Reticules do not completely disappear from fashion, but do not become popular until the 1910s, when their second wave of fashion occurs.

Overalls (fr. Salopette; de. Latzhose; es. Overol; it. Salopette; pl. Ogrodniczki; ru. Комбинезон; pt. Jardineira; nl. T...
27/05/2023

Overalls (fr. Salopette; de. Latzhose; es. Overol; it. Salopette; pl. Ogrodniczki; ru. Комбинезон; pt. Jardineira; nl. Tuinbroek) are a type of garment that combines pants and a top. The classic overalls consist of pants, a bib and shoulder straps. There are several types of related clothing types: overalls, coveralls, romper and jumpsuit. In some countries, this is one type of clothing, differing only in top, and therefore the name may be one.
Overalls appeared in the middle of the 19th century as men's work clothes. Overalls were originally made of denim, but they can also be made of other materials such as corduroy, chino cloth, or leather. Overalls were a uniform and was not worn as a fashion item. In men's fashion, there is no such development of overalls as in women's.
In the 1910s, overalls were worn by women forced to work hard jobs instead of men who had gone to the WWI. The jumpsuit appears in the 1930s. The upper part of the jumpsuit could be a blouse, shirt, top. The jumpsuit is worn with a shirt or T-shirt, while the jumpsuit can be worn with or without underwear. In the 1930s, the "romper suite" appeared - a short version of the overalls (shorts plus top). Rompers were popular as summer wear, beachwear, or were called "play suits".
In the 1940s, women again stood up for hard work and overalls were already entrenched in women's fashion.
There is also "coveralls" or "boilersuit" are a type of garment that combines a jacket and pants. Coveralls are a garment with long sleeves or covers the maximum of the body, hence the name. But not all languages have a special term. Coveralls are a work uniform that are still in use nowadays.

Sunglasses are an accessory that protects your eyes from the bright rays of the sun.The history of sunglasses goes back ...
07/05/2023

Sunglasses are an accessory that protects your eyes from the bright rays of the sun.
The history of sunglasses goes back thousands of years, but it was not a fashion accessory, but a necessity. Spectacle lenses were made from precious stones (such as emerald) and even from amber.
Since the late 1920s, sunglasses have become a fashion accessory. Each successive decade changed the shape and color of sunglasses. They began to hide their faces behind sunglasses to remain incognito. Sunglasses were worn for sport or to emphasize elegance and luxury. Celebrities often wear glasses indoors to add mystery and coolness.

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